Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Pictures of the tortuous

Now, imagine you're an ant in a new world of weeds as tall as sycamores.


A glance up as i walk the tepe (hill) to Tarlebashe (the main, dodgy road).


The view from my abode. As you can see, the city resembles the character of an Energizer battery.


Can you tell? This is the same street as number 1. It's down the hill though. Follow it and you have many doors to chose from. The prizes may vary.


This is the magical Istikal street - The one with the lights and whistles I mention we find as our savior from the darkness of Tarlebashe. This a normal amount of people for Istikal.


Lastly, this should look familiar? It's the same street as 1 and 3, and the same direction as 1. Looking at the buildings with two different views is actually how I take in new surroundings. First, it is the up and then I look to the down. Where am I going? I ask myself. Then I look up again and remind myself that I don't care.

Tortuous

The best word to describe the streets of Istanbul is "tortuous". They are winding, twisting, maze-like squiggles that somehow get deemed names even if they're only a block long. Buildings make their homes on any square of open space and continue up because the outer perimeters are made up of other buildings and roads that are also trying to find sunlight. Their weed-like appearance palpably produces a belittled feeling, in which I play a determined ant and the world is my obstacle. Up and down, around and through fallen trees. I seem to climb and climb but find myself back where I started, or maybe a hill up from there. I stop and rest only to gobble up my little ant bites of grub, extract what energy I can from them, and then continue on my arduous adventure around the weeds of Istanbul.

Now that you see me as an ant, you can imagine me being dropped among the weeds on my first day with a load of all that I plan to own for the next year. In reality my luggage weighs about 100 (+) pounds, but in the ant world, I'm certain it would match the load of a dead fly. A little big, a lot awkward, and very important only to me, really. Though, I do catch the other bugs eyeing up my load every so often, and it makes my little ant legs start to tread with the fervor of the great hummingbird's wings. I don't like the thought of losing my dead fly to a slug gang, or a cross-dressing cricket. It would be very unfair as I've worked very hard to earn the dead fly.

The beetle I rode in on from the airport got confused, as beetles often do. He got turned around when he flipped on his back and read the map. Very unfortunate for me and my fellow ant friend. We didn't know that beetles had this tendency. So, we got out where the beetle told us to get out, near a large open space known as Taksim Square. I believe it's a common location for insect rallies against the government of weeds. This would have been helpful had we known what it was, but as we were new ants on a new hill, we could only really look at one grain of sand at a time. Trying to piece all of those sand grains at once would have been like piecing the moon together by looking at all of its craters. Simply impossible.

My first impression from the sand grains and weeds I explored was that they all looked too alike to tell the difference. I could make out the main bug paths from the flattened reeds or lack thereof, but couldn't juxtapose myself next to any one thing that was on the map I had. We could make out one street and that was Tarlebashe, or what I now know as the street of doom for weak ants at night. The sun was setting and we began to meander down the street, using our antennae for information on our progress.

We bumped into logs and trees and many, many weeds. We wandered around them in circles to no avail. Finally, I told my ant friend to sit with our load of dead flies and wait near a Tarlebashe dragonfly bus stop while I wandered the streets. I figured it would be much quicker and more efficient for me, the less tired and better navigating ant to go off alone than the other, more sporadic and worrisome ant.

I walked in more circles and up and down more hills than I could remember. We had already wandered with our loads for an hour, so I was very tuckered and very much hoping to see something that resembled an ant nest. A few more twists and wicked turns and WHOOSH! Like the wind of a swooping swallow I was overcome with the gusts of Istikal, the shopping area for hip ants looking for a good time with the crickets and grasshoppers.

Wait, now. Though this may sound like a good thing (it was but...), but it wasn't on the map I had. I couldn't see it anywhere. Still, I trekked back to my fellow ant and let my antennae go wild with his and told him to follow me to the street of lights and safety! He let out a signal of pure glee as he told me that while he was waiting he had been affronted by two different cross-dressing crickets, and that he was certain he was standing on their corner. I smelled the air, nodded my head and quickly loaded our dead flies that were still being ogled by the slugs on the other corner. YIKES.

So he followed, and I led. On the way we decided that maybe we should just stay at a slug inn for the night, just so we're not wandering around entertainment central with everything we own, weak and vulnerable and ready for the taking.

By the time we found a slug inn among the weeds, we both were ready to collapse. Our load was tattered and wet, and we were in a state of delusion. A night of nestling on a bed made of reeds (not the best either), and a breakfast smelling of ground coffee beans and steamed milk, and we knew we'd be much more durable in the morning.

A gander at the international spider web was all that was needed to set us right. We perked up, loaded our stores and headed out in the direction opposite to where we had been headed the night before. Just 30 minutes and a few wrong turns then right turns then a hill or two later, we found our cricket landlord who would lead us just 5 minutes to our new ant hill's door.

I don't know if it sounds more or less difficult when I tell it from the view of an ant. But I think if I say that it only took us 14 hours, a good rest and a coffee to be little ant superstars, when it should have taken us 20 minutes had the beetle not been upside down, Tarlebashe not so dark and creepy, and the weeds so tall or the roads so tortuous. Not to mention our outlandish amount of baggage stessing our ant legs and mind the whole time.

It really is good to know where we are now, but recounting this first day of Istanbul confounds me as how we weren't picked off by the crickets or grasshoppers or slug gangs that were eyeing us newbies up. Perhaps they took pity on the frightened and lost little ants, or perhaps our dead flies didn't look as appetizing as I thought they looked. If that's the case, I'm going to start trying to look like a dead fly more often. Maybe I'll feel safer walking the Tarlebashe tortuous streets at night.

Monday, May 23, 2011

Not Constantinople Newbie

Merhaba, new blog! (And new blog readers!)

Finally commencing an online "memoir"/journal for myself, and newsfeed of sorts for my family and friends back in the States. As you most likely know, I flew off to Istanbul mid-April this year. Prior to then I was living in South Korea teaching little spunk-meisters how to curse in English. I came home for about three weeks in March/April and then headed off for a new adventure a la Istanbul.

I've been here about a month now and therefore think I can make a bit more sense out of everything that's come my way. For instance, the police en mass with their gas masks and batons don't seem as daunting as they were the first week. The angry protests down Istikal (the main shopping/entertainment street near my apartment) are not so overwhelming as they are daily and innocuous. There is also the hurdle of language, one of the more furtive though mundane obstacles of living abroad. I'd like to believe I'm capable most days, but then find my ego as quickly knocked over as the cup of coffee I try to apologize for, but embarrassingly can't. One would think I should just learn how to speak the darn language, I mean I think I should just learn to speak the darn language, but I think I've gradually morphed out of the traveler's alacrity for the new and into the expatriate's endurance for the everyday. In other words, I find myself gravitating more and more towards the everyday needs versus the outrageous, exciting and enigmatic experiences. I actually think this tendency may be the same equation as that for getting older. Is that not what the wise and sapient do? And isn't there that saying, "Travels are for the young." Or is that just what my friends and family have said to me? No, they/you said, "Best to do it (travel abroad) while you're young." I'm saying here that I'm beginning to understand what they/you mean. -I'm feeling older with each new experience. Language is but one example. Not only is my English ephemeral, but so are my memories of the new languages I've recently learned or am trying to learn. I'll acquire one word in Turkish one day, but then lose five words of Korean and forget how to use my English modals the next day. Most of the time I feel I'm in retrograde and therefore am frustrated with every "one step forward, two steps back" occurrence. I don't mind losing my Korean, but I do mind feeling old and slow. A smart person would combat this tendency with brain sharpening quizzes and puzzles, but the layman, i.e. moi, sticks to her obdurate limited communication and continually orders a similarly insipid/disgusting dish at every meal. *It did not happen this quickly in Korea. I studied Korean everyday and tried to speak with my fellow teachers. I had to learn it because not many people spoke English. After about a year I realized I didn't have to speak as much Korean as I thought, and let my studies and ambition taper to near nothing. The problem I'm seeing in myself in Turkey is that I've been here just a month and have already become ambivalent towards Turkish. On one hand, I feel incredibly lazy and angry at myself for being so, but on the other hand, ignoring that one stress (and a big stress, at that) assuages my mind to a relatively agreeable comfort level. Meaning, I ironically feel more capable when I am unable to speak the local language. Don't ask me why, but I think it has something to do with ego and the familiar being a large bolster to it. Like if you live under a rock, at least you know that one rock inside and out. But if you go outside of the rock, you have a whole headache of crap to learn! I enjoy the learning crap on most days, but when it's everyday, I very much miss my rock.

Time is another issue for the nascent citizen, and I have more time now because I'm not so worried about seeing EVERYTHING there is to see in the city. For the first couple of weeks there was nothing but a large stress bubble engulfing both my and my boyfriend's worlds. We worried about jobs, money, traveling, people, food, language and rent on loop. We wanted to see a lot of Istanbul but also felt insecure about our wallet size and therefore job searched for most of the time, ate for a quarter of the time and finally did our part as newbies to Istanbul, seeing a bulk of the sights within a couple days we took off each week (and those were the cheap/free sights - no 20 Lira Topkapi Palace kind of thing.) I'm fairly certain that this is a normal stress for most new expatriates, especially those without a steady income. That stress coupled with the newness of everything really brings your patience down to near nothing, and your annoyance level up to the back of your throat. Thankfully, we had each other to lean on, to bicker with, to commiserate and laugh with. If it wasn't for the Brendan and our few new friends here who have helped us with finding employment, I'm not certain how well I would have foundered here. Istanbul a likable city and I already have an affinity for it, but my comfort level is tested daily when I walk out my front door, and thank Whatever, there's a Brendan to escort me home when my patience has cracked and my mouth is spouting warnings of my internal combustion. Now that we're kind of finding our groove here, my combustion has lessened since. Yet, if there's one thing I've learn about allaying time stress (and all those things that fall into it), is that it's not a crime to take a day off. And that most of the time, those things that seem so stressful now are most likely hugely overrated in your head. Accepting that thought, I've been a lot less combustible and a lot more likable (by people and by myself.)

So, in all, I'm glad to say that life is a bit slower now and the city a lot smaller since we've both got a stable source of Lira these past couple of weeks. I will be doing a Governess position, which will be live-in as of June 1st, and Brendan will be doing a lot of tutoring and copy-editing until September, when he'll start full-time for an academy-like institution. Yes, this means we won't get to live together for the next year, but I think that may be okay as the most stressful part of moving halfway across the world is largely over. Now we just have to go with the flow and stop trying to tread so hard.